are twisted together

These are cabled yarns and usually have 6, 9 or 12 threads. The single threads are twisted together in the same direction as the twist in the singles. Usually two or three threads are thus twisted. Then two or three of these " preparings " are twisted together in the opposite direction. The cabled yarns are then gassed and polished or glazed.

A type of fancy yarn twist, in which loops are formed of mohair or thick cotton or two ordinary threads. One of the ordinary or thin threads and the thick cotton or mohair are twisted together, the thin thread being tightly held and the thick one slackly twisted round it. This two-fold thread is then twisted in the reverse direction with another thin thread. The reverse twisting throws up the thick thread in the form of loops. The curls or loops vary in size from small to large. Small loops are usually on yarns intended for dress goods, large ones for astrakhans, etc.

These are very strong and require to be pliable and supple in the finished thread, so as to be free from a tendency to curl and twist up, which would cause entanglements in a net. The yarns are about 20's in 21 folds. Usually American cotton is used with the singles spun twist way. Made into 7 cord twisted twist way, with a good proportion of twist. Then three of the 7-cord threads are twisted together weft way with a moderate amount of twist.

English-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 1³/₄-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of ⁵/₈-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end.

English-made tufted fabric composed of cotton warp and weft for ground, and woollen pile weft in 1³/₄-in. lengths, 25 tufts per inch of ⁵/₈-in. pile. The warp is 16 ends as one, and three such compound threads are twisted together and woven 10 per inch. The weft is thick cotton yarn of four threads as one, five picks per inch. One pick is inserted after each row of tufts. As the pile yarn has four threads of 5 skein as one, there are 25 X 8 = 200 ends of pile yarn per square inch. The rugs are fringed at each end.

These are yarns made up from a number of single yarns that are twisted together at two doublings (see Cabled Yarns)

These are twist yams made in wool, worsted and cotton. Two or three threads are twisted together (generally two) one dyed, the other white. Used in the cotton trade for grandrelle shirting (see mock grandrelle)

Material composed of manila hemp, prepared and plaited, largely used in the making of light hats. Women and children pick and bind the hemp fibres in their homes, returning them to the manufacturer in round balls. To form the threads, three fibres are twisted together by hand and wound on to spindles or bobbins. The plaiting machine prepares the tagal from 13 bobbins and stretches the threads between rollers. When plaited into braid the pieces, 80 yards in length, are bleached, sorted and packed in bundles of 25 pieces, 1,000 pieces making up a box.

Material composed of manila hemp, prepared and plaited, largely used in the making of light hats. Women and children pick and bind the hemp fibres in their homes, returning them to the manufacturer in round balls. To form the threads, three fibres are twisted together by hand and wound on to spindles or bobbins. The plaiting machine prepares the tagal from 13 bobbins and stretches the threads between rollers. When plaited into braid the pieces, 80 yards in length, are bleached, sorted and packed in bundles of 25 pieces, 1,000 pieces making up a box.

Sewing thread, composed of three-ply threads, which are twisted together against the original twist.

A native-made cloth used by Indian natives. It is made from ordinary grey yarns, but two threads are twisted together by hand. The weave is plain, about 40 ends and 36 picks per inch, and owing to the loose twisting the cloth is very spongy.

NAUTICS - Ropes are made of hemp, flax, jute, cotton and numerous other fibres in different countries. The strands are twisted in a different direction from that of the original yarns. See following list. They are often measured by their circumference in inches and length in fathoms (6 feet). Bandura-wel. Pliable cord. Stem Pitcher plant, Ceylon. Cable. Heaviest ropes: over 10-in. circumference. Cable-laid ropes. Three ropes, three strands, twisted into one. Cablet. Ropes less than 10-in. circumference. Cant. The strand of the rope. Dori. Indian-made ropes used for tents. Dumb waiter rope. Untarred ropes of hemp. Fag end. Untwisted end of a rope. Fake. A single coil of rope. Fancy line. Braided cord used for sash windows on ships. Fathom. Standard length of rope measure - one F. is 6 feet. Hawser. Small cable twisted from three small ropes each of 20 strands. Heart. The core strand of a rope. Heart yarn. The centre of a core yarn. Kickling. Old rope round cables to keep them from chafing. Kink. To twist a rope. Knittles. The strands of two ropes twisted together. Lacs. Strong thin cords. Lay. The strand of a rope. Laying. The doubling process in rope making. Lizard. A rope with several rings spliced into it. Marling. Small tarred rope used to tie ropes. Mat. Made of old ropes, interwoven and beaten flat. Netting. Network made of cord. Parcelling. Wrapping of old canvas round ropes for protection. Patent cordage. Ropes or cords spun by natives. Paunch mat. Ships mat made from rope. Plain laid rope. Hemp or manila rope, made of three strands RH twist. Rattine. Small rope, measured by the fathom. Rombowline. Condemned canvas or rope. Rope yarn. Yarn made of RH twist, manila or hemp. Russia rope. Untarred cables and cords of hemp. Seizing. Binding two ropes together with marling. Seizing stuff. Rope of 4 to 12 strands used for seizing. Sel. Strong rope made of hemp fibres in India. Selvagee. Skein of rope with another rope wound around it. Sennit. Braid formed by plaiting strands of rope together. Shroud laid. Rope with core and four strands twisted around it. Shroud rope. Finer quality of rope of three plies; used for rigging. Spun yarn. Rope of long tow hemp, tarred and rubbed. Strap. Rope spliced to form a ring. Suti. Twisted cotton rope in India. Swab. Bunch or mop of soft rope. Tapered rope. Rope with strain bearing part thicker. Water laid. Heavy rope, three strands each with three plies, used for hawsers. White rope. Untarred cordage on ships. Worming. Filling divisions in rope between the lays with spun yarn. Wrack. Sea grass used for coarse ropes.

Silk yarns are composed of a number of silk filaments twisted together, usually 8 to 12 to form a thread. The filaments have a natural coating of gum which gives strength and elasticity, but reduces lustre. The gum must be boiled off if lustre is wanted, which may be done either in the yarn state or when woven in cloth. Silk yarns are divided into two classes, " thrown silk" and " spun silk," the first being yarns that are made by the processes of reeling and throwing, and the second consisting of yarns spun from waste silk. Thrown Silk, or Net Silk comprises organzine and tram yarns, organzine being made from the most perfect cocoons and used for warps. Tram is made from the inferior cocoons and used as weft. All silk contains a proportion of natural gum, and the amount of gum removed give rise to the following terms: - Boiled-off Silk - Yarn which has had all the gum removed, and has the highest sheen (see Boiled-off). Hard Silk - Yarn that has not undergone any boiling-off process. Ecru Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about 3 per cent to 5 per cent of the gum by light washing in lukewarm water. Souple Silk - Yarn boiled to remove about one-sixth of the gum. Bengal Silk - See Bengal Silk. Berlin Silk - A silk yarn made for fancy hand work. It is produced by doubling from 4 to 8 twisted singles grege by a right-hand twist; then again doubling three of these with a left-hand twist. The thread is very round, smooth, and hard, also known as cordon-net. Blond Silk - A special silk yarn made by doubling three grege threads left-hand twist, then doubling three of these together with right-hand twist. Brights - Silk which has been entirely de-gummed in the skein and then dyed. Bourette, Bourrette Yarn - A low grade of silk yarn made from the waste produced by schappe spinning. Canton Silk - See Canton Silk. Chiffon Twist - Single raw silk threads, 50 or more turns per inch. Used for chiffons, crepe-de-chines, etc. Crepe-de-Chine - Hard twist tram silk, about 40 to 70 turns per inch. Made from 3 to 5 raw silk ends. Usually woven as weft. Crepe Georgette - Hard twist raw silk usually made from two threads 13/15 deniers, 50 or more turns, both right and left twist, used for crepe georgettes as warp and weft. Crepe Twist - This is tram silk hard twisted, having from 30 to 100 turns per inch. Used for making fabrics of a crepe character both all silk and mixtures. Cordonnet Silk - See Berlin Silk; also under Cordonnet. Eri Silk - A raw silk obtained from the wild silkworm " Attacus ricini." Flock Silk - A general term used to indicate silk yarns made from the outer uneven parts of the cocoon. Floss Silk - Used principally for embroidery purposes. It is a thrown silk and made by doubling two thick raw singles with right-hand twist together with a left-hand twist. Galette Silk - A coarse silk yarn made from waste. Grenadine Silk - Organzine silk with a large number of turns per inch. Jaspe Silk - Silk warps printed in the hank. Ombre Silk - Skein dyed yarn in a gradation of shades, which run in sequence of depth of colour, varying from five up to forty shades. Schappe Silk - A spun silk yarn which is made from silk degummed by the maceration process used on the Continent (see Schappe Silk). Soie Ondee - See Soie Ondee. Silk Yarns - In addition to the foregoing yarns see under the following terms for further silk yarns: - Cable, Cevennes, Chappe, Chine, Clochepeid, Crocheting, Crue (see Ecru), Cuite Cusier, Cusirino, Degummed, Docken, Doup-pion. Ecru, Embroidery, Etschingo, Filature, Filature a 1'Europeune, Filet, Florette, Fringe, Goffered, Grege, Gum Hainin, Hard, Kahing, Knitting, Lousy, Marabout, Maybasch, Melange, Mele, Mi-cuit, Minchcw, Nett, Noil, Organzine, Ouvrees, Oval, Pearlina, Pel, Pelo, Poie, Pure dye Silk, Raw (see Grege), Re-reels, Retorse, Senegal, Sewing, Simonita, Soft Singles, Soie Ondee, Souple, Spun, Steeped, Strafilato, Stumba, Thrown, Tors San File, Tram, Tramette, Tsatlees, Tussah, Twist, Washed, Zaguri.

The operation of drawing silk from the cocoons or unwinding is termed reeling. The filaments from several cocoons are reeled together as a single thread. They are not twisted, but adhere to each other by reason of the gum which joins the two threads in the bave. ———————— The process of unwinding yarn from cops or bobbins and rewinding on to a revolving reel in the form of skeins or hanks, in which form it is most suitable for export, or for sizing, dyeing, bleaching or mercerising. The cotton reel is usually 54-in. in circumference. Cross Reeling is the method usually adopted when the hanks are for dyeing. The thread is traversed rapidly across a width of 3-in., making diamond-shaped crossings which keep the yarn open and makes hanks capable of undergoing the dyeing process without entanglement of the yarn. Grant Reeling is similar to cross reeling, but the crossing of the thread is more open and shows decided diamond-shaped openings both on the reel and when opened out for rewinding. By this method of crossing, hanks of great length can be reeled ranging from 5 to 10 times 840 yards. Straight, or Lea Reeling - This consists in reeling the yarn in groups or leas formed by holding the traverse rail stationary for 80 revs. (120 yards) and then moving it bodily a short distance. In a 840-yard hank there will be seven leas side by side, the yarn being continuous from one lea to another. Two interlacing tie bands are usual. This method is used for export yarns shipped in 10-lb. bundles. Ring-tie Reeling - Cotton yarns for polishing (see Glace Yarn) is reeled by this method. The length of each lea is 210 yards and straight reeled two leas in length. The tie band is in the form of a figure 8 so that it can move freely with the friction of the brushes. The beginning end of the first lea is tied to the finishing end of the second lea, but not tied to the tie band. Skein Yarn - Yarn reeled in sections of a given weight.

A flax thread made for boot and shoe stitching. They are composed of from 4- to 12-fold, 17's to 27's lea, twisted together by a number of turns equivalent, approximately, to the product of 2¹/₂ to 3 and the square root of the finished lea of the thread. " McKay " and " Goodyear " threads are other threads for boot sewing. They are named according to the make of sewing machine to be used on.

Single cotton yarns are usually made up in 10-lb. bundles when intended for the home trade, or for dyeing, bleaching, etc., in what is known as " Long Bundles," which consist of 20 hanks twisted together to form a knot and sufficient of these knots tied together to make 10-lb. lots. A ticket is tied to each bundle to indicate counts.

A special silk yam made for braiding, crocheting, cords, trimmings, etc. Four to eight twisted grege singles are doubled together in a left hand twist and three of these doubled threads are again doubled with right-hand twist.

A weatherproof fabric used for cloaking of strong construction and made in Levant. It was originally made of camel's hair, but many wools and mixtures are now used. It is native-made cloth, the warp is of silk and wool twisted together, and the weft of angora or camel's hair.

Cotton yarns of various counts, made by twisting two or more single threads in the reverse direction of twist; these are again twisted together but in the direction of twist they were spun.